North in the Spring: #19:
Tseax Volcano
by John Neville

About two and a half centuries ago (1750-1775) a volcanic eruption took place in B.C. The Tseax Cone (also known as the Aiyansh Volcano) exploded, pouring molten lava down its slope into the Nass River. The lava flow is about 12 km long. Originally, it almost blocked the Nass River. It may have been the worst natural disaster in Canadian history because it is estimated that at least 2,000 Nisga'a people were killed by the poisonous gases. If you visit Nisga'a Memorial Lava Bed Provincial Park (Anhluut'ukwsim Laxmihl Angwinga'a sanskwhl Nisga'a), you will be asked to not remove rocks or stones as they are respected as the tombstones of the Nisga'a ancestors. https://bit.ly/3Ge33Na

The total area covered by the lava flow is 39-square.kilometres and in some places is 12-metres thick. The hot lava not only swallowed up many trees but also set them on fire. As the lava cooled it left perfect "casts" of tree trunks behind, including the features of the bark. Cinder cones are created when gas- charged lava explodes out of volcanic vents. The pieces of lava cool in mid-air and land as cinders around the vents. One cone stands 100-metres high and has a crater 80-metres deep.

The lava flow isolated five kilometres of Vedder Creek from the Tseax River and the Steelhead trapped in the creek gradually evolved into what are known as "phantom" fish with snake-like bodies with large heads. We were unable to find any fish when we walked the trail. Due to the rocky surface, nature is only now re-establishing itself on the lava. Many of the trees are more than a century old but less than a metre in height.

Since the signing of the Nisga'a Treaty in 2000 there have been some infrastructure improvements. For example: we crossed the river in earlier times on a very shaky rope suspension bridge in the village of Gitwinksihlkw (the Place of Lizards) on the bank of the Nass River; now there is a substantial concrete bridge and pedestrian walkway with totems representing the four clans at each corner.

A world-class museum has also recently been established, allowing the Nisga'a Nation to display their rich cultural heritage and many fine works of art. The harmony of the people with nature and the respect Nisga'a have for the world around them is fully depicted. Our respect for the people was enhanced by their code: "Be kind, generous and humorous." To visit this incredible site, turn north at Terrace and travel approximately 80 km on Hwy 113 into the Nass Valley. This road is an ancient travelling corridor for the Kitsum Kalum people: passing Kitsum Kalum, Sand, Lava, and Gainer Lakes, with coastal mountains just off to the west. https://www.nisgaanation.ca/volcano

Enjoy this article featured on page 31 of the Spring 2022 edition of BC Nature